Our Harley Days: Road Trip #3, Day 3 - Happy Independence Day Ride and More

July 4, 2011
Colorado, USA

HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY USA!

Road Trip #3, Day 3 (part 1) - Parade, Cedar Breaks, Scenic Byway 143 aka Utah's Patchwork Parkway

We had a great night's rest at the Color Country Motel in Panguitch, UT. We rose somewhat earlier than we might have done because some enthusiastic local could not resist setting off a round of fireworks nearby about 6 am. Ha!

After our less than satisfactory experience with the Flying M Restaurant last night, we thought we'd ride out a few miles and see about rustling up breakfast elsewhere. As we were getting ready to ride we met a nice couple from Saint George, Utah who were friends with the owners of the motel. We got side-tracked talking about the balloon festival Panguitch hosts every June along with a motorcycle rally. The owner had already told us about it and after talking to this couple we thought it might just be a lot of fun to come back for the event.

Getting to the gas station proved interesting since law enforcement officials blocked the entire Main street and access to just about everything as they geared up for the annual 4th of July Kiddy parade. We rode several blocks around the town to finally make our way into the back side of a station about two blocks from the motel. By the time we filled up, the parade had begun so we left the Harley parked at the pump, walked to the curb and watched the parade. Just about every kid in town was in the parade including a few teens and adults and lots of pets. Just about every kid in the parade was riding something, from motorized battery cars, bicycles, scooters, motorcycles, wagons, go-carts, dune buggies, and every kind and size of ATV one could imagine. (This is off-road country.) And every one of them were flying the American flag. Wow! What a fun exhibition of small town patriotism. It made me proud.

As soon as the parade cleared, we made our way out of the crowded gas station and rode the back streets a few blocks before finding a cross street that was clear and let out on the highway. Today's plan was to ride Bryce Canyon early and finish the day off with a scenic byway loop.

As we rolled out of town I noticed a road sign that said, This is not Highway 89. What? We had missed the turn for Highway 89 because we rode the back streets out of town to get around the parade barricades. We were on Hwy 143. Oh well! Shall we do the scenic byway first then? Why not!

Hwy 143 is a nice ride. The road is smooth with lots of gentle curves winding through The Dixie National Forest and wildflower festooned roadsides, around rock outcroppings and past sage lands. We came upon Panguitch Lake and I noticed on the signage that we were traveling at 8400 feet in elevation. Neither one of us wanted to admit it I think, but it was chilly and getting more so. I discovered later that this route exhibits a 4,500-foot elevation change. We stopped at the first pullover and put on the denim jackets.

Before long, we remarked on the large lava flow fields alongside the road. A look at the map later revealed this area is known as the Markagunt Plateau Lava flows. These flows are only a few thousand years old.

The road climbed and the terrain became alpine meadow, colored by vast expanses of wildflowers just reaching their first bloom. We had snow beside the road. Turning south onto the six mile Cedar Breaks Scenic Byway (U148), we pulled over at a lookout point to admire the area known as Cedar Breaks National Monument, described as an amphitheater, over 2000 feet deep with a view that extends over 100 miles.

Tim - Cedar Breaks Overlook - Utah USA

Vik - Cedar Breaks Overlook - Utah USA

Soon we were traveling southwest along the very busy Markagunt High Plateau Scenic Byway (U14) finally turning north on Highway 89 aka Heritage Hwy. All along the way we looked for breakfast and bypassed a couple of places where in hindsight we think we might should have stopped. The small town of Hatch looked promising. We chose the Cactus Cowboy Restaurant on the outskirts of town. Having missed breakfast, we ordered lunch (burger/sandwich) and a sweet concoction called a red white and blue something or other. It was tasty. The service was quick and efficient, the food was prepared well and served fast. The decor was old cafe with several life size cardboard cutouts of western characters scattered about (John Wayne, Roy Rogers, Lone Ranger and Tonto). There was some nice western artwork and lots of old vintage photos and posters. The gift shop was mostly out of date souvenirs and not very interesting.

I picked up a bookmark size brochure that told an interesting story...
The Quilt Walk: When Mormon pioneers settled the area in 1864, both the lake and the new community took on the name Panguitch. Life was hard for those early settlers. At an elevation of 6,630 feet above sea level, in mountain country near Bryce Canyon, the growing season is short and winters can be harsh.

That first year was cold and crops froze before reaching maturity. The settlers grew dangerously hungry. A group of seven men volunteered to go over the mountain to an established settlement to obtain flour. They braved snow so deep, they had to abandon their wagons and walk much of the way. While walking, they would fall through the snow's crust. But these men found a way to get through. They placed a quilt down on the snow and walked to the end of it. Then they would place another quilt down and retrieve the first quilt. By "quilt walking" the men made it to the settlement and obtained flour to bring home to feed the starving settlers. Their return trip was even harder, because they had to carry the flour over the mountain.

Slide show of today's ride (part 1 = 83 photos)

Road Trip #3, Day 3 (part 2) - Bryce Canyon

We came out of our jackets again. About 8 miles out of Hatch, we turned east onto Scenic Hwy 12 which bears the All American Road designation. We back tracked on Hwy 12 (this is the road we came in on yesterday) and had the pleasure of riding through Red Canyon again. We turned north on UT63 which goes through the resort area known as Bryce Canyon City and leads to the entrance of Bryce Canyon National Park. The fee to enter the park for two people on a motorcycle is $24 (FYI: They cannot break $50 or $100 bills).

The canyon is named for Ebenezer and Mary Bryce who lived in the area 1875-1880. The Bryce Canyon Lodge, built in the 1920s is located in the park near Sunrise Point. Wonderful cabins. The paved park road is very nice. It travels about 18 miles in and is lined for the most part with forest. Scenic points are clearly marked and all the pullouts and parking areas (at least the ones we used) are paved. The elevation of the park is near 9000 at some points. There are many hiking trails in the canyon. Colors in Bryce Canyon are the result of oxidized minerals -- red, pink, orange from iron, purple from manganese, the whites are from limestone. The rock formations are known as HooDoos. HooDoo = pinnacle of rock created by the forces of erosion.

Our first view of Bryce Canyon - Wow!

Our first stop (we missed the first one located outside the entrance) was Sunrise Point (elevation 8017). Oh my goodness! We had seen a few photos in our research that led us to this area but we had no idea of the grandeur we were about to behold. I cannot begin to describe how beautiful it is. Stunning. And the view changes with light and shadow. Each point had its own charm.

After stopping at the first point, we realized that all the points overlooked the east side. So, to avoid crossing traffic the whole way, we traveled to the far end and worked our way back.

At Pondersoa Point (elevation 8904) we encountered a couple of friendly ravens. The pair didn't mind posing with dozens of tourists including me. Ha! We worked our way along, stopping at nearly each point and strolling along the rim, pausing to sit and snap far too many photos. The park was busy today. Very busy. One thing we noted is that there were a good many international visitors. I recognized dialects from Sweden, Germany, Japan, China, Italy and France among the crowds. I brushed elbows more than once with a man from Georgia and a couple of other bonafide Americans.

The art of erosion and the tenacity of life

Bryce Canyon Utah

Bryce Canyon Slide Show (104 Photos - trimmed down from about 500 shots):

Road Trip #3, Day 3 (part 3) - Red Canyon

Red Canyon is located along Scenic Byway 12 aka All American Highway 12, just 9 miles from Bryce Canyon. Red Canyon's arid desertscape is peopled with sandstone HooDoos. We rode this canyon three times over the course of this road trip - it was a great scenic ride and we loved riding through the arches.

Slide show of Red Canyon (30 photos):

By the time we rode out of Bryce Canyon, we were ready to freshen up and find supper and beer. As we moseyed back into town, I noticed the restaurant the owner of our motel had mentioned was open. We parked The Ride in front of the room and covered it. Then we strolled downtown to Cowboy's Smokehouse. We loved this place as soon as we walked in the door and got a whiff of Mesquite BBQ and heard live music. We were seated immediately and served our beers before we could crack open the menu. I ordered the beef brisket, Tim ordered a sampler platter. Tim had the pinto beans, I had the baked beans. Both were tasty. The potato salad was thick and chunky. The service was fast, friendly and efficient. Our waitress was very attentive. The decor was western lodge cafe and very informal. The entertainer (trying to get his name) was great, He sang a selection of songs you rarely hear these days, kind of country folks songs like Moriah, Ghost Riders in the Sky and so on. I loved it.

After dinner, we walked the rest of Main Street and back to our motel, settling in the chairs outside our door with a convenience store beer served up in plastic cups. We spoke with some of our neighbors as they walked by and checked in with the rest of the world on the laptop. At dusk, we decided to walk a few blocks south toward the rodeo arena and happened upon what looked like a small park. This was the place to see the fireworks I guess because at least half the town was there. Near dark, we got a rumble out of the sky. And then, we got a big light show compliments of Mother Nature followed by some large raindrops plopping on our head. Not being all that interested in making ourselves a conductor of electricity, we slowly started making our way out of the park and back the few blocks to the motel. Most of the other people on foot were doing the same thing. About halfway back the skies let loose and we arrived at our room's door slightly damp.

I told Tim they better light the fuse quick. They did. It sounded like they lit every firework they had at one time. Ha! The whole shebang was over in less than five minutes and that in the middle of a downpour.

No matter, we have had a great day - seen some amazing things - and have come away grateful that we live in such a glorious country with the freedom to go where we please and celebrate as we choose. I say it again: