Colorado, USA
Fort Collins, CO -- Monsoon season is upon us in Colorado. This seasonal flow brings moisture up from the Gulf and dumps it on us. The forecast is for rain and more rain in the coming days. The result is usually flash flooding, rock slides and mud slides. We've been putting off riding to a couple of dealerships on the east side of Denver to get our passports stamped... don't know why. I think it is probably because there are so many other places we'd rather ride than busy metropolitan Denver on a rare Saturday off. So, today was the day we chose to get that done. Then we hoped to get at least a Mount Evans ride in, maybe more.
We took the stay-off-the-interstate as much as possible route into the east side of Denver, locating both dealerships without too much trouble. We had breakfast at an IHOP in between the two. After refueling, we rode C470 along the foothills, turning west on Hwy 74 to ride through Bear Creek Canyon and the small towns of Morrison, Idledale, Kittredge and Evergreen. Motorcycles were everywhere on the road and lining the curbs near the eateries of all the small towns. As usual there were elk roaming the streets and parking lots of shopping centers in Evergreen. Just north of Evergreen is Hwy 66 west, otherwise known as Squaw Pass Road. This road eventually turns into Hwy 103 which goes up and around Mount Evans. At Echo Lake Park and Visitor Center Hwy 5 (there's a fee) will take you up to the top of this massive mountain. The elevation at the summit of Mount Evans is 14,264. This 14 mile drive is the highest paved road in America. We were not planning a trip to the top today.
Squaw Pass Road - Mount Evans, CO near 11,000 elevation
Reaching Idaho Springs we grinned because skies had cleared and the day had warmed. We decided to ride a couple of miles on I-70 and connect with the Central City Parkway and ride 8 miles into the gambling towns of Central City/Blackhawk. We stopped up on the parkway for another quick photo op at the point where it looks down on I-70. In Blackhawk we had to make a choice, ride down the canyon into Golden and home or ride up the peak-to-peak highway and home. Either way is a great ride. Naturally, we chose up.
Mount Evans - Juniper Pass Lookout -- You hear that thunder? Yeah. We might get wet. Yeah. You ready to ride on? Yeah. Ha!
Flaming Gorge Utah
Fort Collins, CO -- Thinking we have recovered from Road Trip #2 we thought today might be a good day to ride close in, maybe get our passport stamped in Greeley. It was near noon I guess when we called David to see if he wanted to ride along. He said he had just pulled in from a morning ride and had already been to Greeley last week, but he was game to ride again.
David knows the way
Marilyn Monroe Bike
Tim checking out Marilyn
Nice ride
Afterwards, we asked David to ride us by his new house... he has a contract in on a new build near the small town of Johnstown. It's a lovely place and he's going to have lots of room for himself - and hopefully his friends - wink-wink.
Storm rolling in over the tooth

The day was a bit gray out the window but we thought those were just morning clouds as we walked down the hall to the breakfast room in our hotel. The Days Inn offered some hot food on their continental breakfast bar. Biscuits and gravy works for me any ol' time. We lingered over a couple of cups coffee and engaged in the usual motel morning chit-chat, answering tourist curiosity about where we had been and where we were headed on the Harley. When we arrived back in the room to finish packing, a glance out the window showed moisture on the ground and the cars in the parking lot. Maybe it was a light shower, maybe it was a heavy dew, maybe it was fog slime (condensation) - who knows? Anyway, it was damp and chilly riding out just after 7 am.
The first thing we encountered as we began our stroll through the cemetery just about ruined Tim's morning. We disturbed a little snake (just over a foot long) sunning on the walk. Tim has this thing about snakes - he believes anything that slithers should be dispatched immediately - that means make it dead and quick. The only good snake is a dead snake was his reply to my comment I think it is just a regular ol' itty-bitty bull snake. It is a good thing there wasn't a hoe handy. He cautioned me not to get too close to it... so of course I had to get a couple of good pics... ha!
Custer National Cemetery
The Custer National Cemetery was established in 1879 to protect the graves of the Seventh Cavalrymen who fell in the Battle of the Little Bighorn. In 1886, President Grover Cleveland set aside more land and over the next decade the remains of soldiers and other military personnel were moved from various abandoned forts in Montana, Wyoming and the Dakotas. Wives and children of military personnel are buried here, many of them dying of disease or in some accident at isolated frontier posts. The graves of many Indian scouts are here, too. Other sections of the cemetery contain the remains of veterans from other conflicts from the Spanish American War to World War I & II to the Korean War and Vietnam. The Stone Lodge near the entrance to the cemetery was built in 1893 as a home for the superintendent.
Strolling up to the monument erected on Last Stand Hill, we noticed the markers. Markers are placed throughout the battlefield area where it is known a soldier or Indian fell. Custer's marker has a black face so that it stands out among the others. We noticed at least two other markers in this area with the name Custer. The Last Stand markers are fenced in below the monument. Others are scattered throughout the many acres in fields and along ravines and ridges. Some of the Indian Markers are of red stone.
The remains of about 220 soldiers, scouts and civilians that were originally buried where they fell were gathered up and buried at the base of the monument. Officers remains were moved to various cemeteries across the country. Custer's remains are buried at West Point. Nearby a marker designates an area where the remains of all the horses from the Seventh Calvary are buried. Signs are posted along the pathways with information about the significance of that particular location in the battleground. After investigating the area close to the monument and studying the plaques in the nearby Indian Memorial we spent some time in the museum looking at a very nice collection of artifacts. Before leaving the battleground, we cruised the five mile road that winds through the battlefield which is larger than you might expect.
Tim - Little Bighorn Battlefield, MT
Vik - Little Bighorn Battlefield, MT
The landscape doesn't change between Casper and Cheyenne. Still rugged. The mountain range viewed far in the distance along this stretch is known as the Laramie Mountains. This area is a bit more populated, but the farm/ranch towns are not large. I-25 passes beside Glendo Reservoir which has more water in it that we've ever seen. We thought about taking a long and lonely road due south out of Casper into Laramie but it appeared the valley we would travel through along that route was getting some nasty weather and there is barely a sign of civilization along the way, so we stayed on the interstate. We stopped twice just before Wheatland, once at a rest stop for obvious reasons, next at a truck stop that houses an A&W Root beer. I called the folks to let them know we were getting close to home, so far so good. We had an ice cream cone and a root beer. In the short time it took to make this stop, a nasty little cloud had developed. We stopped for gas in Wheatland and got the heck out of there.
Billings, MT -- Happy Birthday Tim! What a great night's rest in The Bella Vista Motel of small town Choteau, MT! Before rolling out about 7:30 this morning Tim took the opportunity to open his cards from myself, Stormy (daughter) and family, and the Folks. He was much pleased with the cash and a Harley gift card found inside the cards.
On the road as we neared Helena, we rode through the area called Gates of the Mountains, a canyon named by Lewis (of Lewis and Clark) for the illusion created by steep limestone cliffs that seem to open as you travel the Missouri River. Shortly after arriving in Helena, we found a JB's Restaurant. We haven't been in one of those in a good many years. The breakfast buffet suited the birthday boy, so it suited me as well. Later, we drove some of the downtown streets of Helena. I love the variety of turn of the century (last century) architecture. The courthouse is a classic example of Greek Renaissance design. The Cathedral of Saint Helen is a glorious example of Victorian Gothic architecture. Helena is a place I would like to visit again... and maybe take a walking tour or bus tour of the town which is rich (no pun intended) in gold mining and other western history.
Color Tim happy with a birthday breakfast buffet
We stopped for gas and continued east on I-90 toward Billings which was a pleasurable and scenic ride. We had planned to turn off the interstate at the small town of Laurel and head south into Wyoming to pick up Alt Hwy 14 and ride the Medicine Wheel Byway across to I-90 and end up in Sheridan or Buffalo, WY for the night. Mother Nature had other plans. As we neared the cut off the skies grew more troubled and then became blue black and ominous, forming a healthy wall cloud. We pulled off at a rest stop and broke out the rain gear for the first time this trip. We weren't the only ones. We tried to tune in the weather band radio for a forecast but there was no reception where we were sitting. As skies began to spit on us, we decided to make for Billings. Fortunately, we stayed mostly dry except for splash back and had missed the bulk of the rain cloud that deposited a good amount of rain on the road.
Later, I asked the desk clerk about possible eateries within walking distance. She referred us to an Irish Pub called Fiddlers Green Sports Bar and Grill a few blocks away on Southgate Dr. So, after Tim called the Folks and the daughter with thanks for his birthday cards, we cleaned up and cheering our good fortune because the skies had cleared somewhat, me and the birthday boy strolled the few blocks to the pub and ordered a couple of beers and onion rings. Later, Tim ordered a hamburger while I chose a BLT. Both of the sandwiches were monster-size and loaded. The portion of fries on the side was huge. We could have made a meal by sharing either one of our sandwiches. And both orders were cooked to perfection. We spent a couple of hours there, munching and smoothing out the day with a couple more beers. The atmosphere was friendly and comfortable. Our waitress was good-humored and efficient. Did I mention the food was excellent? This was not just a burger joint, the prime rib and steaks that passed by on the way to another table looked excellent. Get off the beaten path and ride away from chain restaurants when you visit Billings, MT and seek out Fiddler's Green - you will not be disappointed.
Birthday Beer - Cheers!
Rolling due north on Hwy 93, we soon found ourselves riding through the Flathead Indian Reservation and along the edge of the 18,000 acre National Bison Range. We rode under the Animal’s Bridge which I have heard about but had no idea it was on our route. Apparently, there are several of these bridges to be constructed in the near future, but most of them run under the road. The signs along the way were written in both English and Native American language. The road leveled out after a few miles flanked by what could only be described in my limited knowledge of the area as marshlands or wetlands and populated with an amazing variety of water fowl.
Flathead Lake is the largest freshwater lake west of the Mississippi, supplied by the Flathead and Swan rivers. It is very impressive, being twenty eight miles long and about 15 miles wide at one part. Here are the other specs: 160 mile shoreline, 188 square miles of water, 300 feet deep. There’s a State Park located on the largest island in the lake called Wild Horse Island. It is framed by the Swan and Mission mountain ranges.
Before long we were on the road again, riding across The Armed Forces Memorial Bridge and along the western shore of the lake which is quite scenic. We stopped at one pull over to admire the view and for a photo-op. The mountains loomed ever larger in the distance. We rolled on through Kalispell and a few other small towns, agreeing that it will be worth a trip back just to explore the towns and some of the other roads. We stopped for gas before entering the park as we had no idea what was on the other side of the park or if anything would be open (since it was a Sunday). We knew on the other side was an Indian Reservation. We’ve ridden through Indian Reservations before on a weekend without much luck.
Oh-My-Gawd View - Waterfall
Oh-My-Gawd View - Mountains and Glaciers
McDonald Falls - Glacier National Park
McDonald Creek (looks more like a river) rushes alongside the road for about half of the trip. Heavens Peak (elev 8987) is the highest peak in the immediate area. It has perpetual snow. We crossed through two tunnels on the road I believe.
Water Fall alongside the road
The marvels seen along and from the road are too numerous to mention. From the road one can see many waterfalls, several of which are directly alongside the road not to mention the ones seen cascading into the wilderness valley far far below.
The 100 ft section known as the Weeping Wall, unlike other waterfalls in Glacier National Park, was not entirely put there by Mother Nature. The veins of water running through the rocks in the mountains, were natural, but man opened them up by blasting to build the road. When these veins and springs were exposed, the water poured out on to the road. This section of road was fun. We felt the mist as we rode by, but got lucky in that we were on the outside lane. As we were riding by, we heard a woman scream out because the man driving swung close enough to the wall to let a spray of cold water enter through the sun roof of their vehicle right on her head. I heard a laugh so hopefully she had a sense of humor.
The Weeping Wall - Glacier National Park
Another interesting sight along the way was a sort of bridge known as the The Triple Arches. This was built in the 1920's to direct the flow of water from a mountain gap. I learned later the original plan did not call for the Arches but rather a retaining wall. They look like some ancient aquaduct.
At Logan Pass (elev 6646) the road had climbed 3000 feet up from Lake McDonald. It is the highest point on this trip. There's a Visitor Center at the summit and this is where the road crosses the Continental Divide. A sign posted on the road said the Visitor Center parking was full so we rode on by.
Riding along the road the view is one spectacular vision of waterfall and mountain, forest and river after another and then you ride up on Saint Mary Lake. This is the second largest lake in the park (over nine miles long). At an elevation of over 4400 feet and at a depth of 300 feet, you can bet those waters will freeze your tootsies. Little Chief Mountain poses as a spectacular backdrop. On the east end of the lake is a tiny island known as Wild Goose Island.
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I have to share the romantic legend of the island here:
Wild Goose Island
A Montana Legend
as retold by S.E. Schlosser
Source: American Folklore.net
In the middle of St. Mary Lake in Glacier National Park is a small island halfway between two shores. Many moons ago now, there were two tribes living on either side of the lake. While there was no direct warfare between them, the two tribes avoided one another and had no dealings one with the other.
All this changed one day when a handsome warrior on the near shore saw a lovely maiden from the other tribe swimming toward the small island in the middle of the lake. He was instantly smitten by her beauty and leapt into the lake to swim to the island himself. They met on the shore of the little islet, and the maiden was as taken with the warrior as he was with her. They talked for hours, and by the end of their conversation, they were betrothed. After extracting a promise from his beloved that she would faithfully meet him at the island on the morrow, the warrior swam home to his tribe, and she returned to hers.
Oh, what an uproar they met upon their return. Neither tribe was happy at their meeting, and all were determined to break the betrothal instantly. What to do? The man and the maiden had no doubts at all. In the wee hours of the morning, each swam out to the little island to meet one another -- from their to flee to a new land where they might marry. As soon as they were discovered missing, warriors from both tribes set out in pursuit, to bring the renegades back by whatever means available.
But the Great Spirit was watching, and took pity on the young lovers. He transformed them into geese, which mate for life, so they could fly away from their pursuers and so that they would always be together. When the warriors arrived on the island, the found not a man and a woman, but two lovely geese walking among the small trees and bracken. At the sight of the warriors, the two geese stroked their necks together lovingly and then flew away, never to return.
From that day to this, the little island at the center of St. Mary Lake has been known as Wild Goose Island.
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We did encounter road construction and 15 to 20 minute construction delays along the way. Those sections of road were down to dirt, rutted and washboarded with loose gravel and construction rubble to keep it interesting. Tim did an excellent job of keeping the shiny side up. Our biggest concern was staying back far enough to keep rocks from the vehicles in front us from damaging the windshield.
Saint Mary Lake - Glacier National Park
Once out of the park we found ourselves on the Blackfeet Indian Reservation, still on Hwy 89. There was a large lodge/visitor center just outside the eastern entrance but it was packed with tourists so we opted to ride on and look for a place to stop a little further down the road. A few miles down the road we were rethinking that decision. About 20 miles later, we rode through the tiny town of Kiowa (nothing going on there or any of the other tiny towns along the way) and about another 12 miles on to Browning. We stopped at the only convenience store in Browning, but the convenience part of the store was closed. We stretched our legs for a few minutes. A passerby said there was a rest stop of sorts up the road a few more miles. We spoke with two women who stopped us to ask if we had been through the park that day. We gave them all the information we had, including road conditions. I mentioned that there were plenty of accomodations on the other side but I didn't know about vacancies. We thought it was a bit late to head over but twilight is long on the western slope. I'm betting they saw a spectacular sunset from a dozen different angles. They were on Harleys and had ridden from Sacramento CA to New York for a huge women's rally and were on their way home. Wow! That's some ride. I told them if they had ridden all those miles, a little rubble in the road in the park wasn't going to trouble them much.
Thinking it was about time to get on down the road and find a spot to park for the night, we continued south on lonely Hwy 89 toward Choteau, on and on and on meeting very few other vehicles and those were mostly motorcycles. We stopped along the way at an abandoned store pulloff. The sign across the road said US-Canadian border 38 miles. When we turned at Saint Mary we were within about 20 miles of the border. We did eventually find that rest stop of sorts which offered the convenience we were seeking, but I cannot tell you exactly where in the route it was exactly - it was somewhere after the abandoned store. This was an amazing stretch of road, straight for miles then twisting and turning for miles.
Rolling into the small town of Choteau, we were much relieved to see signs of civilization, amused to see dinosaur monuments everywhere and surprised to see a courthouse. As we rode by a small tourist court, we saw a couple on a white motorcycle we had seen throughout the day in the park and riding past us while we were stopped in Browning. We stopped for gas immediately and I called the Folks to check in and let them know how our day went. We rode the length of main street, looked at what motels (there were two more) and restaurants (there were three - one was closed) were available. I suggested we take a better look where we saw the other couple. We did and booked a room at the Bella Vista Motel. They had everything we could have needed including a truly non-smoking room with two beds, a ceiling fan, an a/c we did not need and WIFI. The rate was so reasonable we almost didn't believe it. The manager was pleasant and helpful. Our room/cabin was on the very end. It was clean, quaint and comfy. This would turn out to be our favorite overnight stay of the whole trip.
After checking in and dropping off our stuff, we traveled back down Main Street to the Log Cabin Cafe where we had a couple of great burgers and an appetizer called jo-jos (deep fried jalapeno slices). The other biker couple walked in about half an hour later and were shown to another dining area. On the way back to the room, Tim picked up some well-deserved beer and we strolled out to the shelter on the lawn where we sank into a couple of comfy lawn chairs and struck up a conversation with the biker we had seen check in just ahead of us. Soon we were joined by his wife and one of the locals who lived in the motel. Tom and Linda were the biker couple. They were from Seattle following her son who was racing on the late model circuit. He had raced in Kalispell the day before. We talked until after 10 pm and had a great time. A storm had built in the north and it looked as if we were going to get wet but the clouds suddenly dissipated and the remainder of the night was cool and clear.
Did I mention it was a great day? We rode 316 miles through some of the purtiest country we've ever seen... and that's saying something profound given that we live in Colorado with the Rockies right out our back door.
FYI: Mom told me she googled Choteau (pronounced Show-Toe) after I told her where we were staying for the night. She said the hisotry of the area was interesting so I did the same. This Montana town is named for French fur-trapper and explorer Pierre Chouteau, Jr. Choteau is near one of the most important paleontology sites in the world, Egg Mountain (bones of juvenile dinosaurs were discovered at this site in 1977). Fossil eggs and dug out earthen nests were found in the nearby Two Medicine Formation.
OK - settle in folks - this was a big day of almost non-stop picture taking...
From Missoula to Flathead Lake and thereabouts (40 photos):